The Appalachian Mountains of North Carolina

36 Hours in Boone, NC

- New York Times By Jeff Schleg

The Appalachian Mountains of North Carolina were America's frontier when Daniel Boone hunted there during his mid-18th century wanderings. Boone would still recognize the beautiful Blue Ridge high country, where in the fall the hills are ablaze with color. But he might be surprised that his namesake town is a thriving place known as a four-season mountain playground. Assorted publications have named Boone one of North America 's ultimate outdoor adventure destinations and one of the country's best small towns. Surrounded by hundreds of miles of hiking and biking trails, it is also a hotbed of bluegrass music and home to Appalachian State University. Its lively downtown has enough restaurants to fuel up in style for - and refuel and relax after - a day in the outdoors.

Friday
4 p.m.
1) An Introduction

For a primer on western North Carolina's mountain culture, stop in the Appalachian Cultural Museum (400 University Hall Drive, 828-262-3117). One display traces the history of the banjo from a West African gourd instrument to the signature sound of the Appalachians. A short film spotlights local storytellers who mastered the long narrative yarns that thrived in the pre-television era. There's also a room dedicated to Nascar, with two Winston Cup cars and an exhibit on the champion Junior Johnson, who, like many stock car drivers of his era, honed his skills by running moonshine through North Carolina's hills and along its rural roads. Admission is $4.

6 p.m.
2) Eat in an Old Jailhouse

Indian cuisine is the forte at the Old Jailhouse Restaurant (142 South Water Street, 828-262-5000), but there aren't any saris or sitars in sight. It is housed incongruously in Watauga County's original jailhouse, its décor a mix of vintage late-19th-century kiln bricks, rustic wood tables and abstract paintings and photos. Somehow, it all blends together well, as does the korma ($15.50), made of yogurt, cashew curry, fresh vegetables and organic chicken.

8 p.m.
3) Country Jam

Take a 12-mile drive north along winding Route 194 to Todd, a tiny village on the National Register of Historic Places and home to Friday night music jams at Todd General Store (3866 Railroad Grade Road, 336-877-1067), below. Local fiddlers and pickers (and some bluegrass fanatics from as far away as Europe) mosey in, sit down on cushion-padded barrels in the main room and start to play homespun mountain music. When the place is jumping, the music can last late into the night. The jam is free, but donations are accepted.

Saturday
9 a.m.
4) The Right Prescription

Step back in time with breakfast at the grill in Boone Drug's downtown store (617 West King Street, 828-264-3766). Open since 1919, the store is half pharmacy and half old-fashioned lunch counter. Walk along the worn wooden floor, plunk yourself down at one of the two J-shaped counters, and order a veggie omelet ($2.50) and fluffy homemade biscuits swimming in creamy sausage gravy (two for $1.75). The biscuits go fast, so get there early.

10 a.m.
5) Checkers, Chi and Chairs

West King Street is lined with shops and galleries. One of the anchors, in an early-1900's building with creaky wooden floors, is the Mast General Store (630 West King Street, 828-262-0000), a hybrid of outfitters shop, outdoor-oriented clothing store and souvenir shop with about 70 candy barrels. Dogs are allowed, and there's a checkerboard on the first floor, open to all, with game pieces consisting of Coca-Cola and RC Cola bottle caps. At the Dancing Moon Earthway Bookstore (553 West King Street, 828-264-7242), the smell of incense and the shelves crammed with books on mysticism and religious philosophy put you in touch with your inner chi. Check out the wall plastered with roughly 100 bumper stickers, all for sale, proclaiming messages like "Eve Was Framed" and "Save the Earth So We Have Someplace to Boogie." The Hands Gallery (543 West King Street, 828-262-1970) is a crafts co-op run by 15 local artisans.

1 p.m.
6) Uplifting Experience

The courtyard at Footsloggers outdoor sports equipment shop (139 South Depot Street, 828-262-5111) contains a 35-foot tall climbing wall with 14 different routes for all skill levels. Held safely in a harness and helped by an instructor, you grab the plastic holds and pull yourself skyward. Three climbs cost $12.95, and at the top you'll realize just how high 35 feet is.

2 p.m.
7) Good 'n' Healthy

You don't have to be a granola type to enjoy the vegetarian fare at Angelica's (506 West King Street, 828-265-0809). If it's available, grab the table in "the cave," above, a back room with a grotto-like feel set off by an arched entrance. Warm up with an organic Wolavers Organic Ale ($3), and then dive into the Taj Mahal enchilada ($9.95) of mashed potatoes, grilled yams, portabellas, tofu, walnuts, pumpkin seeds and cheddar cheese. You can jazz it up with one of four homemade salsas.

3 p.m.
8) Be Like Lance

Lance Armstrong once declared that Boone and the surrounding region was his favorite American training area. For $35, Boone Bike and Touring (899 Blowing Rock Road, 828-262-5750) sets you up with a mountain or road bicycle and helmet and points out the best riding trails, including the Blue Ridge Parkway, 10 miles south of town.

7 p.m.
9) Some Urban Chic

The sleek airy interior at Coffey's Restaurant & Bar's (179 Howard Street, 828-264-3663), with its funky paintings, is a splash of urban chic in folksy Boone. The chef, John Clark, is a native of Walesand formerly wielded his sauté pan at Terrence Conran's Mezzo restaurant in London, and he changes the menu quarterly. Seafood is always a specialty; you may find pan-seared monkfish over a lobster mushroom and duck confit ragout ($20) or local mountain trout with pesto pearl pasta ($18).

Sunday
8 a.m.
10) Hike on a Mountain

Drive 19 miles south on Route 105 for a vigorous morning hike on Grandfather Mountain (U.S. 221 and Blue Ridge Parkway, Linville; 800-468-7325), so named because its northern face resembles an old man looking skyward. Starting at the summit's visitor center, the challenging yet doable two-hour hike along Grandfather Trail to MacRae Peak climbs rugged terrain that includes numerous ladders and ropes put in place to traverse steep, rocky places. The view from MacRae is worth the effort. This is a private reserve, and admission is $14.

11:30 a.m.
11) Nice Buzz

An eclectic mix of town and gown flocks to Espresso News (267 Howard Street, 828-264-8850) for some of the best fresh-roasted coffee you'll ever taste. Favorites include Rwandan and organic Sumatran coffees ($1.25 a mug, plus one refill). Pastries like cranberry white chocolate scones and raspberry almond coconut muffins are all under $2. Take your sustenance upstairs to the Mosaic Book Store, a small space with scattered furnishings and diverse book titles that feels like somebody's attic library.